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In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods, by Taylor Boetticher Toponia Miller
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Amazon.com Review
Featured Recipes from In The Charcuterie Download the recipe for Carne Cruda Download the recipe for Croque Monsieur Download the recipe for Gingery Braised Duck Legs
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From Booklist
Most Americans continue to demand meat for their primary source of protein intake. But carnivorism has evolved over the past decade, and today’s butchers supply sophisticated consumers with much more than basic, familiar beefsteaks and pork chops. Oaxacan chorizo and Italian cotechino now vie with the all-American hot dog for preeminence among popular sausages. Pancetta threatens to replace bacon, and long-disdained headcheese has become the most sought-after vehicle for productively using up perfectly edible and nutritious meat scraps and offal. In addition to basic information on deconstructing primal cuts of beef, pork, duck, and rabbit, the authors offer ways to prepare all parts of an animal for savory roasts, sausages, and pâtés as well as smoked and pickled meats. A few recipes for accompaniments such as pickles, sauces, and other side dishes enhance the text’s value for both home and professional cooks. Photographs supplement clearly written instructions. --Mark Knoblauch
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Product details
Hardcover: 352 pages
Publisher: Ten Speed Press; 1st edition (September 17, 2013)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1607743434
ISBN-13: 978-1607743439
Product Dimensions:
9.3 x 1.1 x 10.3 inches
Shipping Weight: 3.6 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.5 out of 5 stars
121 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#86,245 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Two earlier reviewers offer fine and informed reviews of this book; reviews that go into useful detail. Make no mistake: this is a very fine book on the craft of charcuterie. It begins with herbs and spices, goes on to talk about a range of tools and equipment--both simple items and 'nice to have' ones and clearly presents recipes from 'The Fatted Calf' and the techniques used to produce them. Reviewers have rightly praised the full-color photos in the book: they are particularly effective teaching illustrations for 'breaking down' cuts of beef, poultry, pork, rabbit and so on. These photos are the best I have seen in twenty-some years of buying books on this subject. Interested readers will know how to produce any of the items presented in the book and will be ready to add other charcuterie books to their collection.This book and its recipes 'delivers the goods' on many specialties. I am particularly grateful for the porchetta recipes, of Italian inspiration. I ate wonderful 'street food' porchetta sandwiches in Tuscany and tried to imagine how to do this 'at home.' Now I know. You will know, too, if you can 'transpose' the seasonings from one meat to another (rabbit to pork) or can move the same seasonings on to the recipe for a 'Cuban' presented a few pages later. Francophiles will find a very fine recipe for cassoulet.One earlier reviewer notes what I can only echo: there are a good many recipes for baking and roasting items. Readers will appreciate that, even if going so far 'downstream' from making sausages and terrines and curing meats is unexpected in a book of this type. Chapter titles include: The Charcutier's Pantry; Provisioning the Larder (they mean a root cellar); In the Butcher Shop (where the photos of breaking down the cuts are concentrated along with unexpected and useful information about meats and fats); Skewered, Rolled and Stuffed (Items); Sausage, Salami and their Cousins; Pates, Potted Meats, Terrines and Loaves; Brined, Cured and Smoked and what the authors call 'Accoutrements'--really, condiments. This last chapter goes beyond the technical scope of 'charcuterie' but will be of interest for its recipes on bread and butter pickles, cucumber dills, pickled red onion rings, chowchow, mostarda, chutney and the like.You WILL want to buy this book for your working library but it is not necessarily the first book you should buy. In recent years, the Marianski brothers book 'Home Production of Quality Meats and Sausages' includes better ideas and techniques for curing and smoking hams and for making breakfast sausage--my first foray into charcuterie (but I began with Fanny Farmer and Rytek Kutas' almost encyclopedic book on the commercial sausage kitchen.) The Marianski brothers offer a wider range of recipes than this book does but their recipes are different and not necessarily better. They do offer better instruction on using sodium nitrate and sodium nitrite as essential preservatives right in the recipe for many cured meat items. My recommendation would be to purchase both books. Taken together, they provide an up to date coverage of a fascinating and tasty culinary subject.
As others have said, the best section of this book may be chapter 3, "In The Butcher Shop," which combines recipes for different types of meat with step-by-step photographs of how to butcher or prepare the meat. If you're buying whole animals or primal cuts in order to get higher quality meat, this is a great book to show you how to break them down and use the different cuts.There are lots of good recipes for cooking a variety of cuts from a variety of meats, but if you're mostly interested in sausages and cured meats, you won't find much here that hasn't already been covered extensively in other books. Chopped chicken liver, basic burger, saucisson sec, pepperoni, headcheese, meatloaf, pastrami – they stick pretty close to the classics or greatest hits. If you already have a copy of Ruhlman and Polcyn's Charcuterie (almost ten years old now), you won't find a whole lot that's new in this section.A professional or anyone wanting to make larger quantities will be disappointed or frustrated to find that all the quantities in the recipes are given as dry measures – teaspoons, Tablespoons, cups. Since a half cup of one kind of salt can weigh as much (ie, contain as much sodium chloride) as a cup of another type of salt, dry measures are inherently imprecise. For a novice without an accurate gram scale, this makes the recipes more approachable, but it won't satisfy more serious meatheads.
Great book for getting started with home curing. Beautiful pictures, great recipes. I have had the pleasure of visiting the Fatted Calf in Napa. What delight - they make alot of the recipes that are in the book. I highly recommend this book if you have interest in learning how to cure and make other old school recipes. It's all the rage right now and rightfully so - get away from all the processed edible food like products and back to old school basics. This is a lost art - hopefully more people will not be so intimidated and give it a try.
Great photos, awesome narrative about why charcuterie is important to this team, and superb treatment of often complex topics.I would think a beginner would enjoy this book and have some good early successes with its recipes. Those with experience will undoubtedly like the story and the pics, but may get a bit bored with the recipes.I say in my headline that this book "blurs" the edges...I say that simply because the recipes are not for a charcuterie purist, but rather someone who loves hanging around a wicked cool, edgy meat and deli shop.Now, I don't mean "blur" in a bad way (see, I have it all stars!), but rather how it fits in its genre. So, if you want down and dirty, with little story, then purchase Ruhlman's book on the matter. And if you want super dry, then buy the CIA edition.
Thought this would be more recipes for curing salamis, prosciutto, hams etc, instead it has some really nice recipes for different game and domestic meats. Beautiful pictures throughout and really good pictures and descriptions for buttering all types of animals. Would definitely recommend this book for the meat eater chefs out there, it just wasn't exactly what i was looking for.
The authors clearly know the subject in depth and have extensive experience in the art of charcuterie. I consider this a must for anyone who wishes to try making at home sausages and cold cuts. It is more than just recipes, it gives information on how to cut meats, seasonings for sausages and dry curing or smoking.Pictures and drawing are superb and very clear, and there is an extensive list of resources.A short review cannot do the book justice.I purchase this book and two others: "Charcuterie" (similar title but a different book) and "Salumi" and consider them the Holy Grail of the art of charcuterie. Each of them is well worth the price.
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